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Rockclimbing around Shaver Lake
There are many ways to enjoy the San Joaquin River, one way to do it is from above. The San Joaquin River watershed is home to granite domes that jut skyward from the deep river gorge. Some climbs require rappels into deep river gorges, leaving climbers to struggle their way back up the canyon walls. Others overlook broad expanses of forest and lakes.
For links to Rockclimbing in the San Joaquin River watershed see:
BALD MOUNTAIN -
This beautiful dome has a few cracks but face climbs are more commeon. Most climbs are two pitches in length. The elevation is 7800' and the view of Shaver Lake is awesome. Directions as given in the guide book: Take 168 past Shaver to the Tamarack Trailhead. Turn right onto the paved road(and set your trip odometer to). At 2.9 miles turn right onto a dirt/poorly paved road. All pavement ends at 4.3 miles. At 4.5 miles, a sign identifying the road as 9S02 is found. At 5.9 miles the four-wheel drive road goes right. Drive over slabs and up a steep hill. Follow the path across open country to the summit. A vehicle with good clearance is needed.
CON DOME -
Located off Dinkey Creek Rd off 168. As a crow flies it is north of Bald Mountain but a different road is required. The area was originally climbed by the Bard brothers who did some daring run out lead bolting. The area was later developed by locals Chambers and Kroll among others. If you look hard enough you can locate a registry above the first Tier. The bottom tier is approx 200' while the top is around 100' or more. Climbs ranges from 5.9 - .11s but has potential for harder. There are mostly sport climbs, but trad and a ton of bouldering abounds. A lot of the sport routes allow you to use pro as well. The dome has a lot of features; slab, water runnels, chicken heads, cracks, off widths, and head walls. A great place.
Turn right just passed Cressman's store above the 4-lane. Under the power lines are the some walls. You can get a road side view while driving back from Tollhouse. Up to 100' walls and spires. Had some activity years ago gut nothing recent. You can also approach from below off Pederson Rd. Park at the power lines and walk up. Make sure you ask property owners.
DOGMA DOME -
This place has 15 moderate Tuloumne-style bolted friction climbs on excellent granite. It is very close to Shaver Lake (you can check out the lake from your belay) and the approach takes about 20 minutes. You can even climb here in the winter. It makes for a fun full day of climbing. Routes average 5-6 bolts in 100 feet, with longer run-outs on the lower angle top sections. Located in a beautiful forest. A pleasant suprise. Directions from the climbing guide:Dogma Dome is just north of Shaver Lake at the turn-off to Big Creek. Go 50 yds up the road past the Big Creek turnoff and look for a hidden dirt road on the north side of a blind curve. Park a little ways up the dirt road. Walk north on a jeep road that follows some power lines crossing a creek. After 100 yards the jeep road turns right and begins climbing. Take all the left options and look for surveyor's tape. You will see the dome to your left but don't cut over until on top of the hill.
HIDDEN ROCK -
41/2 miles past Shaver town, towards Courtright Res. To the south of the road, park on right side campsite. 10 min approach up and over the ridge.
MUSICK ROCK (YETI DOME) -
Not the best granite but great view. Turn left off 168 like you are going to Big Creek. Drive a little ways and then up and left up a road. Park at the gate for a 45 min approach unless the gate is open. Cliff faces S/E TAMARACK RIDGE -
BALD MTN -
Approach from Hwy 168 and follow the dirt roads that head to the old Bald Mountain lookout. About a 1 1/2 miles before, (north of) the lookout, on the west side of the ridge are a few short routes. Short and fun. You can see both the Valley and the lookout from the routes.